Things Are Heating Up
THINGS ARE HEATING UP - CHAPTER 06 Bitter Springs Somewhere between Central Australia and Katherine, winter disappeared. The jumpers we'd been reaching for only days earlier were being torn off for swimmers. The landscape changed. The air felt warmer. The vegetation more tropical. We had officially arrived in the Top End. Bitter Springs was our stop for the night and we fell in love with the campground. Our campsite backed onto the river, which meant our youngest immediately decided she was going to catch herself a “BLOODY BIG BARRA”. Her words. I'm not sure the barramundi were ever particularly concerned.At one point she managed to catch the top of a palm tree. Don't ask me how. Bitter Springs itself was gorgeous. Crystal-clear, blue-aqua, bath-like water surrounded by tropical plants and trees growing right into the water. You get in at one end and simply let the gentle current carry you along. Honestly, we could have floated around there all day. But then came our “We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto” moment.At the end of the float, right beside the stairs where you climb out, was a crocodile trap.Complete with pig's head. We learnt our first lesson in NT crocodile safety.Pig's head still there? Excellent.Pig's head gone? Maybe reconsider. Apparently, up here, a pig's head is a perfectly reasonable measure of whether it's safe to go swimming. Later that day we headed down the road to Mataranka Springs. Same idea. Very different experience.Mataranka felt much more like a swimming pool.A very warm pool.A very, very FULL warm pool. We didn't stay long.Let's just say it was feeling a lot like Grey Nomad Soup.Bitter Springs was definitely our pick of the two. The following morning we continued north towards Katherine and spent the afternoonat Katherine Springs. But the springs weren't what we ended up loving most about Katherine.That honour goes to where we stayed. If you're ever in Katherine, Gorge View Bush Retreat is worth putting on the list.In the evening everyone is encouraged to wander up the hill for sunset drinks on the deck. So we did. Drinks in hand, we watched the sun go down while Manuel shared stories and cultural insights with us, followed by a didgeridoo performance. He had the biggest smile and at one point encouraged the single ladies to get up to learn a dance. Our girls were having NONE of that. Before we left Katherine we cruised Nitmiluk Gorge. The region had experienced record flooding, which meant only one gorge was open when we were there. But it certainly didn't disappoint. The scenery was incredible. Towering rock walls, rock art and finally...Our first freshies in the wild. A few days earlier we'd been surrounded by red dirt and reaching for jumpers as soon as the sun disappeared. Now we were floating through tropical springs, watching sunsets from the top of a hill and spotting crocodiles from a boat. It felt like we'd crossed into an entirely different Australia. Same trip. Completely different world. Sarah.